Republic of China, 1928: Starting from a Wonton Shop

As the saying goes, "People fear becoming famous, just as pigs fear growing fat," the booming success of Li Ji Restaurant after the New Year has made some people extremely envious.

Among them, Wang Mazi was the most restless.

Ever since Li Chunsheng closed his stall and opened a proper restaurant, Wang Mazi went to great lengths to occupy that prime location. He thought that with his second- or third-rate noodle-making skills and the natural customer flow of that location, he could make a small fortune. But reality was completely different from what he imagined.

Those laborers who had previously eaten at Li Ji's wontons would always curse the dishwater when they drank Wang Mazi's soup; and they would spit out garbage when they ate his noodles. Wang Mazi's stall was deserted, while Li Ji's restaurant was constantly having its curtains lifted.

"Damn it, this is weird." Wang Mazi squatted on a stool behind his stall, holding a hardened cold cornbread in his hand. His triangular eyes peered through the alleyway and stared intently at the signboard for boiled pork slices at the entrance of Li's Restaurant not far away.

"Hey, Er Laizi, come here!" Wang Mazi beckoned to his servant.

Er Laizi, who had been beaten up by Ma San before, was now huddled by the stove, warming his hands. Hearing this, he looked miserable and said, "Boss, what are your orders now? Let me make this clear, I'm not going to cause any more trouble. Just thinking about that big kick from Master Ma San still makes my back hurt."

"Coward!" Wang Mazi slapped Er Laizi on the head.

"Boss, you go by yourself, I'm not going!" Er Laizi was as stubborn as a dead pig, determined not to go to Li's shop.

"I'm not going either!" Wang Mazi tightened his clothes. "I'm not stupid."

Erlaizi rolled his eyes at him, as if to say, "So you think I'm an idiot?"

Just as Wang Mazi was watching Li Ji Restaurant's booming business, he saw two black Ford sedans steadily parked in front of Li Ji Restaurant.

In Beiping in 1929, automobiles represented power and influence. The few idlers who were originally squatting against the wall to avoid the wind quickly moved away when they saw this scene.

"Oh, so some big shots are dining at Li's restaurant?" Wang Mazi took a bite of his cornbread, which was so hard it hurt his teeth.

The car door opened, and Feng Liu jumped out first. He was dressed exceptionally neatly today, wearing a black woolen overcoat and holding a large black umbrella, respectfully blocking the rear door.

Mei Lanfang was the first to get off the train.

"Wanhua, is this the Li's restaurant owned by that young boss?"

The second car door opened, and Feng Gengguang stepped out. He was wearing a black suit with a mink coat over it. He looked around the small restaurant and twitched his nose: "It smells good, really good. The aroma can even get through the car window."

Finally, Stuart, with his high nose and deep-set eyes, came down. He adjusted his gold-rimmed glasses, showing great interest in this place full of local flavor.

"Gentlemen, please come in." Mei Lanfang gestured for them to enter.

The shop was originally filled with rickshaw pullers, laborers unloading goods, and a few neighbors of all ages, all of whom were eating with great enthusiasm, sweating profusely and slurping loudly.

When Feng Liu lifted the heavy cotton curtain, the chopsticks in the hands of the diners at the table closest to the door fell directly to the ground.

In Beiping (Beijing), there were very few people who didn't know him. Portraits, records, newspapers—Mei Lanfang's name was the most talked-about figure in the city.

Immediately afterwards, Feng Gengguang, dressed in a black suit and a mink coat, and Stuart, with his high nose, deep-set eyes, and refined demeanor, also stepped in.

Although these two gentlemen were unfamiliar to the laborers, their clothes, their air of wealth, and the two Ford sedans parked at the door made it clear to anyone that they were important people.

"Oh my, it really is Boss Mei!"

"Those two over there, I suppose? They must be very famous and important figures!"

The once noisy restaurant began to feel uneasy. These laborers, though rough, were the most perceptive.

Shunzi was the first to react. He quickly finished the soup in his bowl, wiped his mouth, and whispered to his companion, "Hurry up and go, don't offend the important person."

In no time, the diners in the shop followed suit. Some people hadn't finished eating yet, so they quickly grabbed two sesame cakes, laughed at Old Wu, put down their coins, and ran out. In just a short while, the Li Ji Restaurant, which was originally packed with people, miraculously had empty seats.

At this moment, Li Chunsheng, having been notified by Xiao Wu, quickly came out from the kitchen to greet them.

"Mr. Mei, Mr. Feng, Mr. Situ, what brings you three to my humble shop during the New Year holiday!" Li Chunsheng said with a smile, pointing to the square table in the corner. "Please have a seat."

Feng Gengguang sat down generously, looked around the shop's furnishings, and said to Mei Lanfang with a smile, "Wanhua, you really weren't exaggerating. Although Li's Restaurant isn't big, it's really clean, unlike most old-established restaurants that always have a musty smell of cooking oil."

Stuart took off his gold-rimmed glasses and wiped the fog off them: "Boss Li, I smelled a peculiar fragrance as soon as I walked in. What was that?"

"That's a new dish that our shop just started serving at the beginning of the year, called boiled pork slices," Li Chunsheng explained. "It's a Sichuan-style dish, perfect for warming up and eating with rice."

Mei Lanfang smiled: "Boss Li, since you're here today, you should naturally try this boiled pork slices. But you also have to make another serving of Mao-style braised pork for these two gourmets."

"Alright! Please have a seat, you three, we'll be right there! Big Tiger, take good care of our three distinguished guests!"

"Don't worry, shopkeeper!"

Li Chunsheng turned and went into the kitchen.

He first prepares the tenderloin, slicing the meat very thinly, then marinates it with salt and cooking wine, adds scallion and ginger water, and finally thickens it with cornstarch. This step, called "slipping the meat," is key to making the meat tender.

The fire is raging!

The red oil in the pot boils and releases the aroma of fermented soybean paste, ginger and garlic. The cabbage is blanched and placed at the bottom, and the sliced ​​meat is added to the pot. It only takes a dozen seconds for the meat to change color and be ready.

Li Chunsheng sprinkled dried chili powder, Sichuan peppercorn powder, and minced garlic on top of the bowl. In another pot, the clear oil was already heated until it was smoking.

He hurriedly told Da Hu to bring the boiled pork slices to the table, while he himself brought in the oil pot and tilted it in front of the three of them!

"Sizzle!!!"

As the spoonful of boiling oil was poured in, a rich, spicy aroma exploded throughout the hall.

Feng Gengguang couldn't help but sniff: "Such a loud sizzling sound! This aroma is really appetizing!"

A little while later, Yunniang brought out braised pork to the table, and Li Chunsheng went back to the kitchen to stir-fry some stir-fried liver tips and twice-cooked pork. The four dishes were served! A feast for the eyes, nose, and palate!

As a seasoned China expert, Stuart was quite skilled at using chopsticks. He first picked up a slice of boiled pork, dipped it in red oil, and put it into his mouth under the expectant gazes of Mei Lanfang and Feng Gengguang.

"Oh my God!" Stuart's face flushed instantly. He kept breathing out warm air; foreigners rarely eat spicy food, but his chopsticks didn't stop. "Incredible! It's very spicy, but it's so delicious!"

Mei Lanfang was amused. He picked up a piece of braised pork, put it in Feng Gengguang's bowl, and said softly, "Second Brother, try this meat. It was a little cold when you ate it last time, but it's warm today, so it tastes even better."

Feng Gengguang picked up a piece of braised pork, took a bite, closed his eyes to savor it for a long time, and then opened his eyes to praise, "Amazing! I heard Wan Hua say that this braised pork is made without soy sauce, yet it has such a deep color and mellow taste. Boss Li, your skill in controlling the heat must have taken at least twenty years to master."

Li Chunsheng chimed in with a smile, "Mr. Feng is joking. I'm only twenty-one this year. It seems I had to start training right after I was born."

"Hahahaha!" Li Chunsheng's words made the three of them burst into laughter.

"Boss Li, your shop is doing so well, haven't you ever thought about moving to the main street? Or opening a few branches in Beiping?"

"Mr. Feng, you have to eat one bite at a time. My restaurant relies on the support of the neighborhood. Opening a big store is an ideal, but taking too big a step might hurt your back."

"That's right, that makes sense," Feng Gengguang said, looking at Li Chunsheng with new respect. "I'll say it again, you can contact me directly if you need anything."

"Mr. Feng, I will definitely contact you if I need anything."

"And another thing," Feng Gengguang glanced at the shop, "look at this, with the three of us sitting here, your income is probably going to drop quite a bit. Those old neighbors and laborers, when they see us, how dare they sit down to eat?"

Li Chunsheng stood to the side, secretly nodding in agreement. Feng Gengguang was right; when they arrived, all the diners had left, afraid of offending them.

Feng Gengguang waved his hand and pointed towards the backyard, saying, "I see that you have quite a bit of space in your backyard. Why not set aside a plot of land and make a private room? In the future, people like Wan Hua who are not comfortable showing their faces in public, or people like Mr. Situ who want some peace and quiet, can just enter from the back. You can charge an entrance fee for the private room and upgrade the food and drinks. This will not only keep up with your business in the front, but also save face for us gourmets."

Stuart listened attentively, nodding repeatedly. "Li, Mr. Feng's suggestion is excellent. In America, even high-end restaurants have private rooms. With such enchanting food here, a quiet environment for conversation would be absolutely perfect!"

Mei Lanfang also chimed in, "Chunsheng, what your second brother said makes sense. Your fame is growing, and you'll likely have many important guests in the future. If you're always crowding around in this main hall, it's bound to cause some unnecessary friction. Providing a private seat would be more respectable for both you and your guests."

Li Chunsheng's heart stirred slightly. As a modern person, he understood the concepts of "privacy" and "consumption stratification" all too well.

Previously, he only thought about small profits and quick turnover, and establishing himself at the grassroots level. He really overlooked the potential high-end market brought by his relationship with Mei Lanfang. If he could really build a refined private room in the backyard, then Li's Restaurant would no longer be just a food stall selling braised dishes and braised pork.

"Gentlemen, you are absolutely right. I will start construction tomorrow!" Li Chunsheng solemnly cupped his hands in greeting.

Feng Gengguang laughed heartily, pulled out a stack of notebooks from his pocket, casually signed a check and pushed it over: "Consider this my deposit. From now on, you'd better reserve a seat for me in this private room."

Li Chunsheng hurriedly declined, but Feng Gengguang glared at him: "Business is business, and friendship is friendship. If you don't accept it, I'll feel embarrassed to come back and eat your boiled pork slices for free."

After seeing off the three big shots, Li Chunsheng stood at the door, watching the two Ford cars slowly drive away, pondering where to find a space to set up a private room.

The following day, early on the fourth day of the Lunar New Year, Li Chunsheng had already invited Wang the carpenter, who was unemployed at home, to the shop.

Carpenter Wang was a veteran craftsman in the area. His ancestors had done repairs for the Prince's Mansion. Li Chunsheng led him around the backyard and pointed to the open space on the east side that used to be used to store miscellaneous items.

"Master Wang, I plan to build a private room here. It doesn't need to be big, but it needs to be exquisite, well-lit, and sheltered from the wind." Li Chunsheng squatted on the ground and gestured with a tree branch.

Carpenter Wang stroked his white beard: "Manager Li, this courtyard is too cramped to build a large house, but I see there are two old locust trees behind you. If we move the house back half a zhang (approximately 3.3 meters) and use the shade of the trees to build a wooden hut with windows on all four sides, and partitioned inside with bamboo curtains, what do you think?"

Li Chunsheng's eyes lit up. This carpenter Wang was indeed a seasoned veteran. This kind of design would be called a scenic view room in modern times.

"Alright! Master Wang, just pick the best materials you can. The wood can't have a musty smell," Li Chunsheng waved his hand. "Also, this house needs a name."

Old Wu then joined in, "Master, since Mr. Mei and his family come here often, we should name this private room something elegant. How about 'Listening to Snow' or 'Returning to the Taste'?"

Li Chunsheng shook his head: "I just thought of one, how about 'Liuxianglu'?"